Any thoughts on St. Andrews University's writing program?
Funny you should ask about this. I actually investigated it when I was looking to study abroad in Scotland during junior year. They offer 2 degrees, the MLitt in Creative Writing and the Ph.D. in Creative Writing--and it's really a Ph.D. in Creative Writing, not a Ph.D. in English with creative dissertation; I didn't say it couldn't exist outside of the U.S.!
The MLitt in Creative Writing is a 1-year program that works a lot like an MFA in Creative Writing: you take courses, you produce a creative thesis. There are about 25 students in the program; getting in appears to be very competitive. But if you're accepted you will be able to benefit from its readings, visiting speakers, poetry festivals, publications... and just look at those pictures of the Scottish countryside! You have to apply really early, though, as they're already accepting applications for Fall 2008.
The Ph.D. in Creative Writing is a program that requires you have a Masters' in Creative Writing already. It's 2 years if you've completed the St. Andrews MLitt; 3 years for graduates from other programs. Those who go from the MLitt to the Ph.D. can also elect to do the full 3 years. What the Ph.D. involves is the production of a book-length creative writing manuscript and an academic research dissertation, over the course of the 2-3 years, under faculty supervision. While you're working on that, you can of course enjoy the literary atmosphere described above. They say they have about 40 Ph.D. students in the school, with the number in creative writing increasing yearly.